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The torii of Itsukushima at low tide
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Japan

5 weeks of trains, game centers and 7‑Eleven.

30 June – 4 August 2023

Tokyo

Kyoto →

Two weeks, a different neighbourhood every day.

30 June – 14 July

First morning. Jet lag had me out at six.
First morning. Jet lag had me out at six.
Akihabara in the rain at noon, Shibuya in the rain at night.Akihabara in the rain at noon, Shibuya in the rain at night.
Akihabara in the rain at noon, Shibuya in the rain at night.
Sunday evening at Tokyo Camii.
Sunday evening at Tokyo Camii.
Found Tokyo Tower squeezed between two buildings, then watched the sun set from its deck.Found Tokyo Tower squeezed between two buildings, then watched the sun set from its deck.
Found Tokyo Tower squeezed between two buildings, then watched the sun set from its deck.
2:42 pm, teamLab Planets from the station. Inside, I lost track of where the walls were.2:42 pm, teamLab Planets from the station. Inside, I lost track of where the walls were.
2:42 pm, teamLab Planets from the station. Inside, I lost track of where the walls were.
The Unicorn Gundam in Odaiba, after dark.
The Unicorn Gundam in Odaiba, after dark.

Kyoto

← TokyoOsaka →

First evening, yukata on.

14 – 18 July

Straight to Yasaka for the lanterns.Straight to Yasaka for the lanterns.
Straight to Yasaka for the lanterns.
8:40 pm. The lanes around Hōkan-ji empty out fast.
8:40 pm. The lanes around Hōkan-ji empty out fast.
Fushimi Inari after dark, Kyoto lit up below.
Fushimi Inari after dark, Kyoto lit up below.
17 July, 10:44 pm. The Gion Matsuri mikoshi, carried through the streets.
17 July, 10:44 pm. The Gion Matsuri mikoshi, carried through the streets.
Arashiyama: bamboo in the afternoon, the river at sunset.Arashiyama: bamboo in the afternoon, the river at sunset.
Arashiyama: bamboo in the afternoon, the river at sunset.
Last day: Kinkaku-ji, then the train to Osaka.
Last day: Kinkaku-ji, then the train to Osaka.

Osaka

← KyotoHiroshima →

Five nights, and the base for Kobe and Nara.

18 – 23 July

Osaka Castle.
Osaka Castle.
Dotonbori after dark.
Dotonbori after dark.

Kobe

← OsakaOsaka →

Friday. A mosque at noon, a waterfall, then the herb gardens.

21 July

Kobe Mosque, the oldest in Japan, then the climb to Nunobiki Falls.Kobe Mosque, the oldest in Japan, then the climb to Nunobiki Falls.
Kobe Mosque, the oldest in Japan, then the climb to Nunobiki Falls.
3:57 pm. The ropeway up to the herb gardens, Kobe behind me.3:57 pm. The ropeway up to the herb gardens, Kobe behind me.
3:57 pm. The ropeway up to the herb gardens, Kobe behind me.

Nara

← OsakaOsaka →

By bike. The deer had right of way.

22 July

Rush hour.
Rush hour.
Nap time in Nara Park.
Nap time in Nara Park.

Hiroshima

← OsakaTakayama →

Heavy day. Quiet evening watching the river.

23 – 25 July

Shukkeien garden in the afternoon.
Shukkeien garden in the afternoon.
The Peace Memorial Museum.
The Peace Memorial Museum.
The Dome across the river, 7 pm.
The Dome across the river, 7 pm.

Miyajima

← HiroshimaHiroshima →

Up Mount Misen, then back down for low tide.

24 July

High tide when the ferry landed.
High tide when the ferry landed.
Climbing gear for Mount Misen: slides.
Climbing gear for Mount Misen: slides.
The top, just before sunset.
The top, just before sunset.

Takayama

← HiroshimaTokyo →

Up into the mountains on the Hida line.

25 – 27 July

Somewhere past Gero, along the Hida river.
Somewhere past Gero, along the Hida river.
Old Takayama after the shops close.Old Takayama after the shops close.
Old Takayama after the shops close.

Shirakawa-gō

← TakayamaTakayama →

Thatched roofs, rice fields, and the hat.

26 July

The village from the lookout.
The village from the lookout.
Bought the hat here.
Bought the hat here.

Hida-Furukawa

← TakayamaTakayama →

One last ride before Tokyo.

27 July

A rented bike, the hat, and rice fields until the train.A rented bike, the hat, and rice fields until the train.
A rented bike, the hat, and rice fields until the train.

Tokyo

← TakayamaNarita Airport →

Back at midnight. One more week.

27 July – 3 August

00:39. The hat made it.
00:39. The hat made it.
Last nights: Shibuya from above.
Last nights: Shibuya from above.
Found: a Shōnen Jump from the Dragon Ball years.
Found: a Shōnen Jump from the Dragon Ball years.

Enoshima

← TokyoTokyo →

The Enoden along the coast, then sunset.

30 July

The Enoden runs right along the sea.
The Enoden runs right along the sea.
Then Fuji showed up.
Then Fuji showed up.

And what I ate.

Unagi, Shinjuku
Unagi, Shinjuku
Sushi, Asakusa
Sushi, Asakusa
Dango, Arashiyama
Dango, Arashiyama
Okonomiyaki, Hiroshima
Okonomiyaki, Hiroshima
Hida beef, Takayama
Hida beef, Takayama
Ramen, Ueno
Ramen, Ueno

Narita Airport

← Tokyo

Time to go.

4 August

00:51. Last photo.
00:51. Last photo.

End of the line

If you go

What I’d tell a friend before the trip.

Go to Fushimi Inari after dark.

Almost nobody on the path, and Kyoto lit up below.

Fushimi InariKyoto

Take the ropeway up to the Nunobiki Herb Gardens.

It really surprised me. A great, very chill afternoon above Kobe.

NunobikiKobe

Stay on Miyajima for low tide.

The day trippers leave and the gate stands on the sand.

Miyajima

Eat okonomiyaki at the counter.

Sit where you can watch it built, layer by layer.

Hiroshima

Rent a bike in Hida-Furukawa.

Rice fields, mountains, and nobody else on the road.

Hida-Furukawa

Skip

Mount Misen in slides.

Take real shoes, or the ropeway.

Miyajima